From Stalin to Santorini: Cruising the Black and the Aegean Seas
We are now onboard MV DISCOVERY, the classic cruise liner, most popularly known as the setting for the old TV series The Loveboat.
Before sailing up the Bosphoros, we had time to explore Istanbul, inspect some Byzantine highlights, such as the Church of the Savior,
visit the spice market,
and watch the fishermen on the Galata Bridge.
Course is set for Sochi, the capital of Russian health resorts. Many lounge in the Yacht Club; a few of us are invited to the Bridge, to say hello to the captain
– even try on his hat.
In Sochi, more fishermen await,
along with Stalin, pipe in hand, in his green Dacha.
Outside Sochi, at Dagony’s Tea Chalet, it was time for a traditional Russian Tea Ceremony…
…complete with folkloric performers in colorful outfits.
Next port, Yalta.
I knew the Vikings were here about a thousand years ago, but didn’t think their presence could still be felt.
This beachfront property recalls the good old days of about 900AD.
As for the rest of the beach...
…it was rather like Coney Island - with a little nudity thrown in.
On a more serious note. To deal with the fate of post-war Europe in 1945, three famous world leaders met at the Lividia Palace...
…formerly a summer retreat of the last Russian tsar, Nicholas ll, and his family.
A tour titled Romanov Holidays included a visit to the Massandra Palace, another imperial vacation spot. Popular with tsars, Yalta, judging from this 19th century group shot, was also visited by one most notable sovereign.
In Yalta, before returning to MV DISCOVERY, we drank tea in the garden of the Massandra Palace, and listened to the Kalinka folk group – at the end of the show, some passengers joined in the dancing.
Under gray skies, signal flags flapping, MV DISCOVERY heads for Sevastopol.
Peter Knego, journalist, lectures on classic cruise ships…
…and Major General Peter Williams shows Crimean War images, and talks about of the siege of Sevastopol.
Old war ships and the ruins of the Greek colony Chersonesus (founded 422BC), were part of the Sevastopol scene.
In the afternoon, things lightened up. It was May 1st in the Ukraine, and all the citizens were out having a ball.
Well, for some it was a bit of a yawn.
Incidentally, even in Sevastopol we saw remnants of a Viking heritage.
After Ukraine, we found ourselves in Bulgaria, in a city variously spelled Nesebur, Nessebur, or Nesebar
Nesebar sight: the 13th century Church of Christ Pantocrator
Other Nesebar sights
Last shot of Nesebar: an improvised stand for passengers waiting for a bus to take them back to the MV DISCOVERY.
Goodbye Black Sea! We are sailing down the Marmara Sea, passing through the narrow straight of the Dardanelles, and, tomorrow morning we will enter the Aegean Sea.
The City of Troy, if it ever existed outside Homer’s brain, was located just a few miles from Canakkale, our next port of call. As for the famous Trojan horse, a version of it could be seen Canakkale.
Also, a morning shave, the ubiquitous glass of tea, and a Turkish bus.
The next morning, arriving in Kusadasi at 7AM, I immediately disembarked, and strolled through what was then an almost empty city.
Next came a guided tour of Ephesus, the city of ancient Greece and Rome. Mustafa, our guide, was most informative and not a little excitable as he pointed out…
the Library of Ephesus (what's left of it), the Goddess of Nike, and public toilets.
As MV DISCOVERY continued south in the Aegean Sea, now heading for Crete, the weather improved considerably, and people began enjoying life on deck.
In Heraklion, Crete, a visit to Knossos was naturally called for.
A bull - not the Minotaur – glimpsed through some bright-colored columns?
In Heraklion we had a light lunch, falling in love with the simplicity and superiority of Greek cuisine. We also met with some friendly people.
Hello again, Santorini. With fond memories of a previous visit, we couldn’t wait to go ashore.
Anchored in the caldera outside Fira, the island’s capital, which perches on top of the Caldera, we were given three choices of entry:
Climb (500 steps), ride a donkey, or take the funicular.
We chose the funicular.
We then followed a circuitous route of winding steps and narrow lanes, among a jumble of brilliant-white houses that seem to cascade down the dark, steep cliffs.
As we headed for Imerovigli, the village just north of Fira, views of the MV DISCOVERY followed us, sometimes in unusual juxtapositions.
I marveled at the consistency of the color scheme.
Our destination: Astra, the dug-into-the-rock, eight-level hotel where we once stayed.
“Ours proved to be not just a room but a suite with a stunning view, which, in a startling visual juxtaposition, immediately brought back thoughts of the island’s tumultuous past. Rising, seemingly from the edge of the shimmering turquoise water of our private swimming pool, was a steep, dark promontory, topped with a giant crag, so fractured that it looked as if it may tumble into the Caldera at any moment. This was Skaros, now uninhabited, but in medieval times the capital of Santorini, a thriving little Catholic settlement, where, from their inaccessible perch, Venetian nobles kept pirates at a safe distance.”
And there it was. (Surprisingly, George the manager, remembered us).
Back in Fira, we revisited Selene, one of Santorini’s top restaurants. There, another George - George Hatzyianakas, chef and owner, immediately brought out glasses of Antoniou Santorini, a local wine with a refreshing aroma of citrus fruit.
Turning around, what would we see if not the good ship MV DISCOVERY, waiting for us to come back?
Before disembarkation in Piraeus, colorful Mykonos still awaited us, with Gods, windmills and pelicans.
But this will be our parting shot: a full Moon over Santorini as we sailed out of the caldera. Such calm, such utter tranquility! It was hard to believe that this, albeit a long time ago, was the most violent spot on Earth, wrenched by a cataclysmic event of such magnitude that it could be heard all the way to Scandinavia and caused the sudden demise of the Minoan Civilization.
