SCOTLAND 2017
After flights to Reykjavik and Edinburgh and a 3 1/2-hour train ride,
we had finally reached Inverness.
we had finally reached Inverness.
From our room at Hotel Columba we looked across the River Ness to Inverness Castle,
its red sandstone facade dramatically lit against dark clouds.
its red sandstone facade dramatically lit against dark clouds.
But never mind – we were ready to hit the sack.
Inverness was just a stopover. Our aim was the fishing village of Gardenstown,
where we would stay for a week in a small rented cottage
that Roxie has had her eyes on for a couple of years.
But before we moved in we needed a place to stay for another night after Inverness.
Inverness was just a stopover. Our aim was the fishing village of Gardenstown,
where we would stay for a week in a small rented cottage
that Roxie has had her eyes on for a couple of years.
But before we moved in we needed a place to stay for another night after Inverness.
We found it in Banff, a coastal town close to Gardenstown.
Called “Castle View,” it was a pretty little B&B (which, as the name indicates,
had something in common with Columba).
Called “Castle View,” it was a pretty little B&B (which, as the name indicates,
had something in common with Columba).
As Roxie worked on her iPad, I explored Banff…
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…seeing a cat in a window, and visiting the local bar.
Then - as on a subsequent visit to Banff - we would make some friends. One of them was Kenny, who ran
“The Broken Fiddle,” a café/restaurant, the name of which recalls the legendary story of James Macpherson,
a famous outlaw and fiddler. On November 16th, 1700, before being led to the gallows, Macpherson
famously played his fiddle and sang a song, whereupon he broke the fiddle over his knee and cast it into the crowd.
“The Broken Fiddle,” a café/restaurant, the name of which recalls the legendary story of James Macpherson,
a famous outlaw and fiddler. On November 16th, 1700, before being led to the gallows, Macpherson
famously played his fiddle and sang a song, whereupon he broke the fiddle over his knee and cast it into the crowd.
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Here, outside Kenny’s place on Strait Path, is Sam, another newfound friend .
Speaking of Strait Path, here it is at dusk.
Now to Gardenstown...
Now to Gardenstown...
a traditional fishing village, built into the old red sandstone cliffs of the North Sea coast
in Aberdeenshire, Scotland.
in Aberdeenshire, Scotland.
Note our little HAH (Home Away from Home).
Inspecting the premises.
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Roxie working on her book...
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as I go out looking for local color.
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Introducing Dave, who with his wife Lynne runs the Garden Arms, a friendly 18th century pub and restaurant.
On hearing that I was somewhat of a “peat lover,"
the patron next to me immediately bought me a glass of single malt Ardbeg
(delectable, though not seen in this picture).
the patron next to me immediately bought me a glass of single malt Ardbeg
(delectable, though not seen in this picture).
As we frequented the pub several times, and enjoyed Lynne’s cooking twice , we came to know Dave.
(In this context I should also mention Teapot 1, a charming little café and restaurant,
where I indulged in superior scones, with clotted cream and jam.)
One day we walked to Crovie, the village just east of Gardenstown.
(In this context I should also mention Teapot 1, a charming little café and restaurant,
where I indulged in superior scones, with clotted cream and jam.)
One day we walked to Crovie, the village just east of Gardenstown.
A picturesque village, indeed.
The next day, walking west along the beach, passing the red sandstone known as the “Old Red,”
we headed for the ruins of St. John’s Church, which, perched on a hill, is said to offer a superior view of Gardenstown.
we headed for the ruins of St. John’s Church, which, perched on a hill, is said to offer a superior view of Gardenstown.
Not bad.
Not bad at all.
St. John’s Church, supposed to be the oldest still to been seen in Scotland, has a history that goes back
to the year 1004, and is known for its close - if not macabre –
connection to what is known as the“Battle of the Bloody Pits.”
In the battle, Danish Vikings, vastly outnumbered by the Scottish army, were massacred to a man,
and left to rot in open graves. Later, the bodies of three Danish chiefs were found, their skulls cut off and
built into the wall of the church. And there they remained - for over a thousand years.
to the year 1004, and is known for its close - if not macabre –
connection to what is known as the“Battle of the Bloody Pits.”
In the battle, Danish Vikings, vastly outnumbered by the Scottish army, were massacred to a man,
and left to rot in open graves. Later, the bodies of three Danish chiefs were found, their skulls cut off and
built into the wall of the church. And there they remained - for over a thousand years.
On our last day in Gardenstown, Mary and Gordon, the couple sitting next to us
at one of our dinners at the Garden Arms, invited us for a drive along the Moray Coast.
at one of our dinners at the Garden Arms, invited us for a drive along the Moray Coast.
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After a short visit to Pennan, the village best known as the location for the 1983 film “Local Hero,”
we ended up at the Banff Springs Hotel, where a wedding was in full swing.
we ended up at the Banff Springs Hotel, where a wedding was in full swing.
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And which included one tartened and most expressive guest.
Next Edinburgh
Next Edinburgh
Just as I remembered it. The castle dominating the skyline…
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statues and monuments…
and rows of houses with rows of chimneys.
Roxie had a meet-up with British Isles/SE Scotland SCBWI (Society of Children's Book Writers & Illustrators)
for which Sarah Towle of TTT&T came up from London!
for which Sarah Towle of TTT&T came up from London!
The Battle of the Bloody Pits may lead you to believe that Scandinavians are less
than welcome in these parts of the world.
than welcome in these parts of the world.
Not so. I just met with Anna Christopherson from Sweden, who, with her husband Mike,
successfully runs six bars and restaurants in Edinburgh,
the most recent and thriving of which is Akva, opened in 2015.
successfully runs six bars and restaurants in Edinburgh,
the most recent and thriving of which is Akva, opened in 2015.
Hej Anna!
Shown here is Akva’s Smörgåsbord sharing platter,
with smoked trout and mackerel, gravlax, pastrami, boiled egg, cream cheese, herbs & crusty bread.
with smoked trout and mackerel, gravlax, pastrami, boiled egg, cream cheese, herbs & crusty bread.
And here, to go with coffee and pepparkakor, kladdkaka & brandy Chocolate Mousse.
(In other words: the most Swedish way imaginable to end
our visit to Scotland in 2017.)
(In other words: the most Swedish way imaginable to end
our visit to Scotland in 2017.)